Copenhagen: Langelinie Park and Christiania

“Copenhagen is the coolest kid on the Nordic block. Edgier than Stockholm and worldlier than Oslo, the Danish capital gives Scandinavia the X factor,” the lonely planet claims and after experiencing it firsthand we have to agree. After a full day at sea on our cruise through the Baltic Sea, København, Denmark was our first port of call and we were for a family friendly adventure. We had two days in this modern yet classic capital finding excitement, beauty, and a touch of hippy love as we walked through the streets from the canals to Christianshavn.

We love how accessible cities in Europe are by foot. Each day we averaged 8-10 miles of just walking around and exploring the different cities and Copenhagen gained a gold star for pedestrian travel in our book, but you may want to pick and choose your key spots depending on how long the kiddos’ energy will last. Walking along the canals we fell in love with the vibrant colors on the buildings even for a cloudy day they seemed to brighten up the sky. Although there are far less of them than in Amsterdam, they surpassed my expectations and some even beat out its neighboring port.

“Tails” from Langelinie Park

Travel Tip >> If you’re on a cruise and didn’t pick up a Copenhagen travel map, simply follow the crowd and you’ll find your way to the first main attraction to kick off your explorations. Be one with the “sheeple” 

It’s the basic principle of accepting being a sheeple, once you find your way to the first main stop there will be some resource or tour guide company begging for your business. In this case the first main stop was the iconic Little Mermaid statue, perched by on a smooth rock by the sea with the old shipping island of Refshaleøen behind her. If you’re coming from city center, it’s a bit far, but walking is never a true chore in cities like Copenhagen, especially when you’re too distracted by its colorful culture and architecture to worry about your feet. For as much hype as the statue has in tour books, it’s smaller than you might imagine once you reach her domain.

Hans Christian Anderson, a children’s storybook legend wrote the classic story of The Little Mermaid and lived many days of his life in Copenhagen. We always appreciated his talents in the classical nostalgic sense, but we recently found a new appreciation after discovering he wrote series of travelogues back in the mid 1800’s, including a visit to my beloved Spain in 1866. It’s incredible to think how many lives his works touched and to see one of his most famed fairy tales memorialized with such permanence was pretty special.

As we trekked on we walked through Langelinie Park where there were towering sculptures sprinkled throughout the grounds, a playground, and a pier. Many of the artistic creations had angels atop, including a tall pillar with one waving gloriously toward the bay that stood as a proud tribute to sailors coming in and out of the channel. Another triangular sculpture with a winged goddess perched memorialized local workers and their life’s labor that they dedicated to the local economy, their families, and beyond.

Down the park path we found a beautiful statue of Princess Marie of Orleans (1865 -1909) that stands tall with a mother and baby sitting at her feet. She was a French princess by birth and a Danish princess by marriage to her husband Prince Valdemar. Briefly learning about her legacy she seemed like a pretty amazing woman and although she never did learn the Danish language, she broke the mold of traditional women in court life by actively participating in political movements and is described as “impulsive, witty, and energetic” introducing a more relaxed style to the stiff royal lifestyle. Even in stone there is something regal about her presence and as a mother and child sit at the foot of her sculpture. Although We are indeed proud Americans and believe in the foundations and purposes of democracy, moments like these remind you why little girls dreamed of being princesses one day and why monarchies tend to be almost romantic in our minds.

Is Christiania Family-Friendly?

Travel Tip >> You’ll have to decide whether this hippy town fits into your family philosophy or not. It’s “Green Light District” may fire up your teens’ imaginations of hemp products but there are a few gems to experience in this interesting little community. 

From white table cloths to picnic benches and homemade houses, it is amazing that just 10 minutes walking distance you can find yourself in Christiania, often referred to as the “city within a city.” It is a place where artists, musicians, students, hippies and yes – families – all co-exist in community. We’ve traveled to a wide range of different countries including many third world destinations and we always like to remind people that although a place may not have the best curb appeal – families do still call it their home. It may be a simple lesson in keeping an open mind to diversity, but you’ll have to decide what’s right for your brood.

When the community was established in the early 1970’s locals basically took over former military barracks so the buildings aren’t much to look at. In fact at first glance it looks like a run-down town under a bridge, decorated with colorful graffiti art, scrap metal sculptures, skate ramps, and residents from all walks of life. For some maybe that’s all it is, for others its an insight into a unique sub-culture of this amazing city.

If your family leans on the conservative side we’d recommend staying to the outskirts of the community where you will still see cultural ornaments scattered around the grounds. If you go to the heart of the area, you’ll find the “Green Light District” which is an acceptable place for marijuana propaganda and usage – which may very well spark your teenagers imagination if they aren’t already familiar with it from the legalization in America. Keep in mind cameras are not allowed in this area so if you do venture in you’ll need to file those away. Given this we’ll let you decide if it fits within your family philosophy but hope it gives you a little insight to help you make your decision.

Craving more about Denmark?

Read all about the royals and a few memorable churches in our post Copenhagen: From Steeples to Regals

Check out the charm of Fredericia Denmark with our Travel Guide and Tips

Copenhagen: From Steeples to Regals

We love experiencing everything that gives a city its unique character from churches to government institutes. Whether you are religious or not, walking into a local place of worship gives you an immersive perspective into its culture. Government buildings, specially those with living monarchies provide a sense of citizenship and purpose to its people. Here are a few top sites for these special places that every family can enjoy.

Charming Churches and Urban Legends

Travel Tip >> As with most tourist cities, some religious buildings have extra fees for tours and accessing top views so bring a few extra bucks if you want all access passes. 

Walk through Langelinie Park and Kastellet moat near the edge of the city streets you’ll find English Church, aka St. Alban’s church, with its high steeple towering over overhead. The prominent religion in the country is Christianity, but similarly to the Church of England, the country has its own Church of Denmark. In comparison they are both of the Episcopal polity however the Church of Denmark is categorized as Lutheran in orientation. St. Alban’s Church is completely dedicated to England’s Anglican foundation and was built in the late 1800’s for the growing English population in Copenhagen.

The sanctuary was designed by British architect Arthur Blomfield in the Gothic Revival style with its dark grey flint stone walls highlighting the white piping and window framing around the exterior. Once inside you can actually feel the silence and reference that was invested to create the soul of the structure, magnified by the contrasting sound your footsteps make when walking down the center isle on the wood floor. The extensive detailing of the carved altar seemed to brighten with the traditional stained glass windows streaming light in from behind. It was a sight grandma would be proud of as we have a bonified Priest in the Episcopal faith in our family. It’s perfect mix of beauty and spirituality might even settle the kids.

If that doesn’t work try driving their attention to the Gefion Fountain just in front of the quaint little church. Like many fountains around the world, many use this one as a wishing well and we can imagine the high expectations for results for those who try as it is the largest monument in the city. It was designed by Danish artist Anders Bundgaard near the turn of the 20th century and depicts the mythical story of the creation of the island Zealand on which the city was founded. There are three tiers with water flowing down to the bottom in short falls and the fountain sends arches of water along the edges that when standing at the bottom, seem to go as high as the steeple of the church.

On the opposing shore of the Kobenhavns Havn waterway in the Christianshavn district we found the Church of Our Saviour, clearly recognizable by its twisting gold trimmed helix spire pointing toward the heavens. We marveled at how the design demanded attention of anyone in its radius. Visitors can walk all the way up and take in amazing views of the city. Despite its beauty and stature, ironically the church has its own urban legend that haunts ghost-seekers that states that the architect committed suicide by jumping off the top of the tower when he realized that the spiral staircase turns the wrong way. Listen closely to hear the church sounding melodies every hour from 8 pm until midnight, not a bad soundtrack to evenings in the city.

There are plenty other churches to check out if you are drawn to the beauty of religious sites like us. A few others include Grundvigs Church, Frederick’s Church, Copenhagen Cathedral, Saint Anne’s Church and the International Church of Copenhagen.

Amalienborg Palace

Travel Tip >> Consider the Danish Royal Guards in the same regard as the iconic English Royal Guards. They are not allowed to talk to anyone like their fellow funny hatted friends, though if you’re lucky you may get a minor smirk. 

Like most modern cities it was easy enough to navigate to the next main attraction by foot – the Amalienborg Palace. It’s easy to recognize once you enter the massively wide open cobblestone square, with a large oxidized bronze statue of King Frederick V reaching to the sky in the middle of the space, and identical buildings all facing one another. Set perfectly on the waterfront, it is home to the Danish royal family complete with around-the-clock Royal Life Guards that strongly resemble the Queen’s Guard and Foot Guards in England. You can feel its magnanimity by just being there, even your little princes and princesses might stop and pause to take it all in before role playing as if it was their castle.

We got a glimpse of the Guards marching in commute to the palace the next day, we followed them as far as the rain and time would allow before ducking into a shop to let the water pass. The changing of the Guards ceremony that occurs daily at noon and by all accounts it’s a great display if you want to plan your day around the event. The guards also appear to have similar rules as their fellow fuzzy-hatted counterparts with little-to-no facial expressions allowed at all times. Be respectful as you snap your shots but have fun doing it!

Fredericia Denmark Travel Guide and Tips

The story goes that this little town was established in 1650 by Danish King Frederick III as a new capital city for Denmark, but it never became so. Fredericia Denmark, a small but charming cruise port, is located on the eastern part of the Jutland peninsula and you will likely land here for a day trip after visiting the metropolitan city of Copenhagen. The town likely relies on tourist traffic to their little town and, like on our occasion, will likely greet you with festive folk music as you de-board the ship. It was a warm welcoming. We suspect that the pop up street vendors set up shop for the special occasion as well, and the prices and busy square will show for it, but its worth a stroll. Believe us you’ll have the time to spare.

A Charming Fortress

Travel Tip >> Skip the cruise’s shore excursion, unless you want to venture outside of the city, just take the map and enjoy walking around on your own. You’ll find everything you need to see and have enough time to do so.

If you’re not prepared for what to expect in this port then you will likely be extremely underwhelmed. Keep in mind this sleepy town gives you more of a small village feel and breather from the big city ports that ships tend to land in and you don’t need to rush. A few friends attested to this after spending the money on those brightly colored stickers and celebrity paddle sign and proved it to be true. The town and its people have their own special charm that is worth checking out as long as you’re there for six to eight hours. Unless of course you want to venture outside the city to destinations like Egeskov Castle, Denmark’s Oldest Town of Ribe, Viking Age Monuments, or Fairytale Island for a whimsical experience every kid at heart can enjoy.

Before the city was named by King Frederick III, King Christian IV built a large fortified encampment that gave the town the military identity and history we know today. The old walls are easy to walk to and the green park space around them offers a relaxing and peaceful light walk. We loved walking along the waters of the moat surrounding the fortress, even on a cloudy day the scene was delightful and had its own unique charisma that mixed strength and romance. There are some stairs to climb to get back to the top of the fortress but it’s worth the view. You’ll find old military cannons scattered around the hills and the path will lead straight to the White Water Tower that is shaped like a single round castle. All the guides recommend climbing to the top, though I believe we didn’t because there was a small fee and the view was decent enough from the hilltop where we stood.

Halloween in May?

Travel Tip for Parents of Teenagers >> If you’re traveling with a saucy teenager and find yourself in the town during a high school finals week keep an eye on them because you might lose them to partying with the locals. Let us explain…

When we got to the White Water Tower it was difficult to not be distracted by the crowds of fumbling teenagers getting enjoying some spirits in the middle of the park while wearing what we would immediately think of as Halloween costumes. We saw everything ranging from a cow, fireman, wizards and witches, and everything in between. Our first guess was that maybe here they celebrate Halloween in May? But nope! After asking a large chicken walking upright down the street, we learned that apparently this tradition happens during a school’s finals week, and it doesn’t particularly matter if you still have a test to take or not, the festivities must go on! To their credit, it did look like a good time.

Other Historic Sites in Fredericia

Travel Tip >> Keep your eyes open and you’ll find little things along the way to appreciate, like the Jewish Cemetery that can be seen as you walk down the hill from the White Water Tower. Here are a few other gems my feet found their way to.

As you walk down the hill from the White Water Tower you’ll run straight into the famed Landsoldaten, or “The Foot Soldier,” statue of Fredericia. It stands homage to the military heritage of the town, and the Battle of Fredericia, which is commemorated with a full festival held annually on July 6th. I vaguely remember it being relatively similar in purpose to The Tomb of the Unknown Solider in Arlington National Cemetery for the United States. A few short steps from there, through the trees, you’ll find the Jewish Cemetery located on the street corner that you can look down into from the hillside. I didn’t realize what it was at the time, but even walking past it you can feel its history and importance. It’s the largest of its kind outside of Copenhagen and is located at the corner of Slesvigsgade and Jyllandsgade. And on my way back to the ship I could not help but be drawn to a beautifully tarnished bronze steeple atop a brick church which turns out to be the catholic church of St. Knud, so fitting for my faith. For most it may blend right into the rest of the brick-and-red-roofed architecture but its a pleasant surprise if you appreciate such things.

Fredericia At-a-Glance

Here is a list from of these and a few other travel sites to consider when walking around the city:

• Fredericia Vold – The park area, with moat waterway, and battle cannons scattered about
• The White Water Tower – A nice view of the city from atop the fortress
• Landsoldaten “The Foot Soldier” – Statue commemorating the Battle of Fredericia celebrated each year on July 6
• The Jewish Cemetery – Jewish burial ground with about 500 graves on the corner of Slesvigsgade and Jyllandsgade
• St. Knud Catholic Church – Beautifully simple brick building with tall tarnished bronze steeple
• Madsby Parken – A park that your kids can play out or just lounge by the water
• Trinatatis Church – A beautiful church that holds a piece of Danish history